Allemagne

Germany !
Germany !

November the 8th, I cross the German border.

Campsote near the polish border - Schwedt, Oder
Campsote near the polish border – Schwedt, Oder
German bike routes indication - around Marienwerder
German bike routes indication – around Marienwerder
 The Berlin Wall
The Berlin Wall
Götz
Götz
Götz
Götz
Hundertwasserhaus - Magdeburg
Hundertwasserhaus – Magdeburg
Magdeburg - Hundertwasserhaus
Magdeburg – Hundertwasserhaus
Creasy wind... Unpossible to bike west, difficult to go south... Kroppenstedt
Creasy wind… Unpossible to bike west, difficult to go south… Kroppenstedt
Flying west - Hohegeiß
Flying west – Hohegeiß
The view from the Harz plateau, on the south direction - Benneckenstein
The view from the Harz plateau, on the south direction – Benneckenstein
Witzenhausen
Witzenhausen
Good food for me ! - Witzenhausen
Good food for me ! – Witzenhausen
Hannoversch Münden
Hannoversch Münden
Hannoversch Münden
Hannoversch Münden
In the old Mühlbach church
In the old Mühlbach church
Oberbeisheim
Oberbeisheim
Usually I cook on my little stove, but under a little and cold rain I made a fire in the wet forest.
Usually I cook on my little stove, but under a little and cold rain I made a fire in the wet forest.
Lautertal (Vogelsberg)
Lautertal (Vogelsberg)
Arriving in the Rhein river watershed, 690m s l - Ulrichstein
Arriving in the Rhein river watershed, 690m s l – Ulrichstein
The descent to Schotten, the weather is foggy on this side of the pass
The descent to Schotten, the weather is foggy on this side of the pass
Going to Francfort downtown
Going to Francfort downtown
In Francfort , after more than 8000 km, I got my first flat tyre... I repair in the street.
In Francfort , after more than 8000 km, I got my first flat tyre… I repair in the street.
Francfort
Francfort
Francfort
Francfort
diner in the forest
diner in the forest
My last bivouac, near Egelsbach. here was a snow fall when I was setting up my tent !
My last bivouac, near Egelsbach. There was a snow fall when I was setting up my tent !
Pfungstadt
Pfungstadt
The Neckar river in Mannheim
The Neckar river in Mannheim
Winter sun on the Rhein river - Neuburg am Rhein
Winter sun on the Rhein river – Neuburg am Rhein

La travercée de la Pologne

October the 24, I arrive in Poland just before night
October the 24, I arrive in Poland just before night
The polish flog
The polish flog
Foggy morning - Wiżajny
Foggy morning – Wiżajny
Fog on the hilles - Barcie
Fog on the hilles – Barcie
The sun is just rising - Gołdap
The sun is just rising – Gołdap
The road is less and less hilly - Banie Mazurskie
The road is less and less hilly – Banie Mazurskie
The moon raising up of the Barciany church
The moon raising up of the Barciany church
The road at the morning- -Sępopol
The road at the morning- -Sępopol
frost and fog at the morning - Spytajny.
frost and fog at the morning – Spytajny.
Pomorska Wieś
Pomorska Wieś
Elbląg
Elbląg
Back to the baltic sea, back to the dunes... - Jantar
Back to the baltic sea, back to the dunes… – Jantar
Without common language, we communicate making drawings on the sand.
Without common language, we communicate making drawings on the sand.
Gdańsk
Gdańsk
Gdańsk
Gdańsk
Gdańsk : the town hall
Gdańsk : the town hall
Gdańsk
Gdańsk
The polish cost near Jastrzębia Góra
The polish cost near Jastrzębia Góra
Dunes, Łeba
Dunes, Łeba
Peoples fighting against erosion... is it really the way ? - Ustka
Peoples fighting against erosion… is it really the way ? – Ustka
Ustka old town
Ustka old town
The cost... (somewhere around Sianożęty)
The cost… (somewhere around Sianożęty)
Kołobrzeg : the "promenade"
Kołobrzeg : the « promenade »
The lighthouse in Kołobrzeg
The lighthouse in Kołobrzeg –
My last time on the polish cost - Mrzeżyno
My last time on the polish cost – Mrzeżyno
Going inland, with the fog... - Trzebusz
Going inland, with the fog… – Trzebusz
My last day in Poland was sunny ! - Kamieniec
My last day in Poland was sunny ! – Kamieniec

 

Have a look there : more picture of me biking with my Warmshower’s host arount the border betwenn Poland and Germany : http://tandemyogi.bikestats.pl/1402823,Do-Schwedt-z-Valentinem.html

Lithuanie

The 20 of October, I arrive in Lithuania.
The 20 of October, I arrive in Lithuania.
The flag, without sun...
The flag, without sun…
Klaipėda, downtown.
Klaipėda, downtown.
The old port of Klaipėda
The old port of Klaipėda
The port of Klaipėda
The port of Klaipėda
This is also a large part of Klaipėda
This is also a large part of Klaipėda
Sandy cost along the dunes string. - Juodkrantė
Sandy cost along the dunes string. – Juodkrantė
The big dunes of Nida
The big dunes of Nida
Trail in the dunes - Nida
Trail in the dunes – Nida
Going inland, Sunny time between rains
Going inland, Sunny time between rains
The Nemunas river, border between Lithuania and Russia
The Nemunas river, border between Lithuania and Russia
Kudirkos Naumiestis
Kudirkos Naumiestis
My last time in Lithuania, the sun is going down and the fog is coming. - Vištytis
My last time in Lithuania, the sun is going down and the fog is coming. – Vištytis

With the winter, the days gets very short. As I mostly sleep in the forest and fields, I don’t write the blog at night… And when I stop during the day, it take on the day time which it already too short… So, there is few text about this part of my trip.

 

Lettonie

Lettonie - 18 octobres 2015
Lettonie – 18 octobres 2015

October the 18th, I enter in Latvia, the sun is going down and I camp at a fire place in Ainaži. There is some hoarfrost on the fields at the morning.

I go south along the sandy coastline, crossing pine tree forests. I follow the baltic sea european cycle road, but there no amenagement for cyclists have been done and the road is not so good… There is a big road with quite a lot of trucks, or some pathes more close to the sea. But those passes are quite hazardous, and more designed for mountain biking. Following them, I get to walk my bike on a rocky beach, and to cross sandy forests where my bike stop in the sand…

I arrive in Riga the 13 of October, there I am hosted by a nice young family that I meet through WarmShowers. I spend one and a half day in the city, visiting and giving a hand to local bikers association !

I am on the roud agein and go to the west to goin back the cost in Júrkalne, then I continu  – south, along the sandy coastline – in the direction of Lithuania. On the way I visit the city of Liepāja, and I spend some time on wonderful sandy beaches, with nobody with the cold weather.

The picture is not the best, but I have to put the flag of latvia, then you will learn about flags !
Ainaži - at night
Ainaži – at night
Ainaži -morning
Ainaži -morning
Tūja
Tūja
Dunte
Dunte
Tūja
Tūja
Sandy trail - Lilaste
Sandy trail – Lilaste
Rīga
Rīga
In the old Rīga
In the old Rīga
The orthodox church
The orthodox church
Ragaciems
Ragaciems
Kuldīga
Kuldīga
Júrkalne
Júrkalne
The entrance in Liepāja
The entrance in Liepāja
Liepāja
Liepāja
Old buldings in Liepāja
Old buldings in Liepāja
New buldings in Liepāja
New buldings in Liepāja
Local food is good for travelers, smoked fish.
Local food is good for travelers, smoked fish.
Pape
Pape, the weather is not sunny anymore…

En Estonie

 

DSCF5489
Le drapeau !

Le 1er Octobre, je prend un Ferry d’Helsenki vers Tallinn, et j’entre en Estonie ! Je passe une journée complète à Tallinn où je visite la ville. C’est la première grosse ville médiévale que je traverce depuis l’Allemagne !

je longe ensuite la côte, directions les iles. Je passe deux jours sur Hiiumaa, dont je fais le tour, puis un rapide passage sur Saaremaa et je reviens sur le continent, et… je longe la côte. Je passe à Pärnu, puis je fille vers la Laittonie, toujours le long de la côte.

L'arrivé à Tallin
L’arrivé à Tallin
Tallinn
Tallinn
L'hôtel de ville
L’hôtel de ville
Dans une rue du centre
Dans une rue du centre
Tallinn
Tallinn
Tallinn
Tallinn
Türisalu, the cliff
Türisalu, the cliff
Campsite, Türisalu
Campsite, Türisalu
L'abbaye ruinée de Padise
L’abbaye ruinée de Padise
La saison des pommes !
La saison des pommes !
Haapsalu
Haapsalu
Sääre
Sääre
Säärenina lõkkekoht - Sääre
Säärenina lõkkekoht – Sääre
Paluküla kirik
Paluküla kirik
Morning cristals...- Kõpu
Morning cristals…- Kõpu
The frozen beach at the morning- Kõpu
The frozen beach at the morning- Kõpu
Autoportrait - Kõpu
Autoportrait – Kõpu
The old Kõpu lighthouse (1531)
The old Kõpu lighthouse (1531)
The end of the day... - Triigi
The end of the day… – Triigi
Triigi, in a forest hust !
Triigi, in a forest hust !
The pass between Saaremaa and Muhu.
The pass between Saaremaa and Muhu.
Autoportrait - Orissaare
Autoportrait – The pass between Saaremaa and Muhu – Orissaare
The last light of the day, on the juniper trees - Kastna
The last light of the day, on the juniper trees – Kastna
Je me suis acheter une bougie - Kastna
Je me suis acheter une bougie – Kastna
Kabli
Kabli

 

 

 

Finlande

Le ferry vers la Finalnde
Le ferry vers la Finalnde

September the 16, I arrive in Fliland. I have contacted someone from CoushSurfing in Vaasa. She provided me a great welcome in Finland, talking about the country, basics of the languages, sauna and bath in the see, local beers… I decided to go and visit the Kvarken archipelago 30 km away. Those islands has a particular geography because the uplift caused by the melting of the glacier that was there during the last ice-age is there very quick (8mm / year ). These are formed by the front moraines of the glaciers formed where those ended into the see. This leads to straight lines of elongated islands.

When I arrive on the archipelago, the rain begins to fall. I go to a small open cabinet on the national park, and spend the night there. At the morning the rain is still falling and I can’t see the islands… I decided to spend a rest day here, hoping no rain for tomorrow. And on saturday morning the sun is shining !

Vaasa
Vaasa
Going to Kvarken Archipelago, with the rain.
Going to Kvarken Archipelago, with the rain.
Some islands, from the bridge
Some islands, from the bridge
Making a soupe in a national park cabin, rain is falling outside...
Making a soupe in a national park cabin, rain is falling outside…
At the cabine...
I spend a day at the cabine… just rain outside.
The bog in front of the cabin at night
The bog in front of the cabin at night
The bog in front of the cabin... at the morning.
The bog in front of the cabin… at the morning.
At the morning, the rain is gone !
The rain is gone, the sea is blue and it’s windy
The cabine
The cabine
Kvarken archipelago
Kvarken archipelago, we can see very well the elongated islands.

After staying on the Kvarken archipelago for two days, I am go east, inland, in the direction on the big lakes of Finland. After 10 days sleeping in the forest, I had 3 rest days with a guy meet through couch-surfing… In the countryside around lahti… Swiming, montain-biking, hiking, tolking…

Going to the rainbow
Going to the rainbow
Ylihärmän
Raining cloud over Lappajärvi
Raining cloud over Lappajärvi
Local berries porridge.
Local berries porridge.
The church of Soini
The church of Soini
Hankajärvi, Soini
Hankajärvi, Soini
Hankala
Hankala
DSCF5026
Jyväskylä
The Päijänne Lake - Korpilahti
The Päijänne Lake – Korpilahti
Autumn colors - Putkilahti
Autumn colors – Putkilahti
Judinsalo
Judinsalo
Auhjärvi -Sysmä
Auhjärvi -Sysmä
Asikkala
Päijänne – Asikkala
Päijänne - Asikkala
From my camp, Päijänne – Asikkala
Päijänne - Asikkala
Päijänne – Asikkala
Päijänne - Asikkala
My camp, on the Päijänne Lake – Asikkala
The road... - Asikkala
The road… – Asikkala
The Hollola old church
The Hollola old church
Pukkila, Finlande. Here it's now that we harvest the oat.
Pukkila, Finlande. Here it’s now that we
harvest the oat.
The winter is coming... I am going south with the gooses.
The winter is coming… I am going south with the gooses.
The Provoo church
The Provoo church
Provoo
Provoo
Back to the see.
Back to the see.
Helsinki
Helsinki

 

Les forêts de Suède.

Depuis une semaine, je traverce les forets de suède. Je suis maintenant à Umeå, demain, je prend un ferry pour Vassa et la Finlande.

Mais je dois maintenant aller au port pour prendre mon bateau tôt demain matin… les photos vont venir !

Utanede, Suède
Utanede, Suède
Coucher de soleil sur mon campement - Bispgården.
Coucher de soleil sur mon campement – Bispgården.
petit dej'
petit dej’
Ångermanälven - Krånge
Ångermanälven – Krånge
Il y a de rares champs près des hameaux - Selsjön
Il y a de rares champs près des hameaux – Selsjön
Selsjön
Selsjön
Self shot - Hälla - Suède
Self shot – Hälla – Suède
La route ... Hälla - Suède
La route … Hälla – Suède
aurores boréales ! En réalité c'était plutôt blanc, mais mon appareil n'est pas assez bon pour des photos de nuit... Hälla - Suède
aurores boréales ! En réalité c’était plutôt blanc, mais mon appareil n’est pas assez bon pour des photos de nuit… Hälla – Suède
La route ... Åsele, Suède
La route … Åsele, Suède
Bivouac - Åsele, Suède
Bivouac – Åsele, Suède
Fredrika, Suède
Fredrika, Suède
Au travers des fôrets après le pluie.
Au travers des fôrets, après le pluie.
Umeå
Umeå
Vent sur la jetée, Holmsund - port d'Umeå
Vent sur la jetée, Holmsund – port d’Umeå
Le port d'Umeå, mon dernier bivouac de Suède
Le port d’Umeå, mon dernier bivouac de Suède

The Dead Waterfall

This article is in english as I want locals to understand. Désolé pour ceux qui ne comprennent pas l’anglais. And the ones who don’t know french will be happy !

After Östersund, I am not anymore in the mountains. I am now riding accross hills cover by forest of pines, firs and birches. Between these hills, there are numerous big lakes.

All these landscapes have been formed by glaciers during the last ice-age. More of the lakes are long and narrow in a valley and retain by the front moraine of the old glaciers. The moraine hills, formed of sand and gravels, prevent the river to flow, and a side pass have been found by the water, creating waterfall on the rocks.

This was the case on the Ragundasjön, which ended by strong rapids. Here, forestry have been a main activity from centuries. And people used the water stream to carry the wood downstream. The waterfall was then a main problem as it breakes the trunks. The, people were trying to create side pass for the wood, in order to prevent the trunks to break in the rapids.

Let’s read some more explanation on this picture…

This is not a picture....

This is not a picture….

The same, with more details...
The same, with more details…

The ingeneer Vildhussen, has the smart idea of using the stream of a small creek to erodate the moraine.

the used of the Boängsbäcken creek to erodate the moraine (red arrow).
the used of the Boängsbäcken creek to erodate the moraine (red arrow).

But during the floods season of 1796, the water began to take the side pass created for the wood, eroding more deeply the moraine. And the lake was emptied in 4 hours… flooding all the land downstream.

Now the waterfall do not exist anymore, and the rocks the water was falling on are called the dead waterfall.

The Dead Waterfall
The Dead Waterfall
River vortex erosion
River vortex erosion
The actual river channel, and on the left, the terrace made from the deposition of the lake sediments during the "catastrophe"
The actual river channel, and on the left, the terrace made from the deposition of the lake sediments during the « catastrophe »

This is an old story but… There is an other lake upstream, the Indalsälven, with a similar geology.

Indalsälven, Åre, Suède
Indalsälven, Åre, Sweden

The Indalsälven is retained downstream by a moraine. This moraine is formed by a serie of small hills and several small lakes in the between. These hills are not high up of the lake level, only some meters, and are formed by sand and gravels. These could be eroded easily…

Erosion of the morainic hills
Erosion of the morainic hills
Profile of the soil forming on top off the moraines.
Profile of the soil forming on top off the moraines.
One of the small lakes between the moraine hills.
One of the small lakes between the moraine hills – I camped there !-

But today, we don’t use anymore the water stream to carry the troncs, we use trucks. We do not employ anymore a lot of people to cut the trees, we use heavy machines. And theses heavy machines erodes soils…

Here, when we cut the trees, we cut all the trees ! And then we plant new ones.
Here, when we cut the trees, we cut all the trees ! And then we plant new ones.
A tractor pass in teh moraines
A tractor pass in teh moraines.
The rapides downstream Indalsälven.
The rapides downstream Indalsälven.
This dam regulates the discharge out of the Indalsälven between the rapids and an underground hydropower plan. When water flow is low, all the water is taken for electricity and no more water pass in the rapids.
This dam regulates the discharge out of the Indalsälven between the rapids and an underground hydropower plan. When water flow is low, all the water is taken for electricity and no more water pass in the rapids. On the right you can see a pass for the wood.
Visiting a small museum about the hydropower plant construction and the history of the area, with a class and my nice and funny guide !
Visiting a small museum about the hydropower plant construction and the history of the area, with a class and my nice and funny guide !

Today the environment agency on the swedish gouvernment assess there is a risk that the story of the dead waterfall heppens again, with Indalsälven, because of the forestery erosion… The newspaper telles about the risk of erosion of the Indalsälven moraines, and the restrictions taken by the gouvernment to prevent it. (you can use google translate to get it in bad english or ugly french). onsite, we do not see so much, just what I tells, the hills are not high and are subject to easy erosion… Some geophysical studies may be needed in order to know how deep is the bedrock and better assess the risk.

There are basically nobody in these hills to ask about their perception of the risk. My guide in the museum does not looks to feel the risk is so huge.

Suède…

Le 3 septembre, j'entre en Suède !
Le 3 septembre, j’entre en Suède !

J’arrive en Suède à Funäsdalen. Là j’apprend qu’il y a une petite route dans les montagnes qui va vers Östersund, où j’a iprévu de visiter des gens de WarmShowers. Cette petite route est la plus haute de Suède, près de 1000m, c’est à dire 300m au dessus de la limite des arbres… Je n’hésite pas et je monte ! Avant même que je soit en haut, je me fais rattraper par le pluie et les nuages. Je n’ai aucune vue ! Le landemain après midi, alors que je suis plus bas, le temps se dégage un peu… Je continue ma route et arrive à Östersund le 7. Je passe un bon moment avec mes hôtes suédois !

Pluie, vent et mauvais temps...
Pluie, vent…
 et mauvais temps
et mauvais temps
Dans les montagnes
Dans les montagnes
Au pays des rennes.
Au pays des rennes.
Le 5 septembre, le temps se dégage.
Le 5 septembre, le temps se dégage.
hameau de montagne - vers Börtnan.
hameau de montagne – vers Börtnan.
La plaine s'ouvre, je descends des montagnes vers les lacs et les collines...
La plaine s’ouvre, je descends des montagnes vers les lacs et les collines…
Une église, la tour est daté de 1751 - Oviken
Une église, la tour est daté de 1751 – Oviken
Le Storsjön
Le Storsjön
L'arrivée à Östersund
L’arrivée à Östersund
Östersund
Östersund